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Weaving Calculations · Lecture 11
Reed Calculations
Reed count, dents per inch, the Stockport sett, ends per dent for each weave and the maximum width a creel pair can produce.
Dents / mStockport settEnds per dentMax EPI
Reed numbering
Reeds are numbered by dents per metre (e.g. 1230) or, in the old Stockport system, by dents per two inches — the Stockport sett. With 2 ends in each dent the Stockport number is also the ends per inch in the reed, which is why it survived so long.
dents per inch = dents/m ÷ 39.37 · Stockport sett = dents per inch × 2 · EPI in fabric = dents/in × ends per dent × (1 + weft contraction)
| A | B | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Reed (dents per metre) | ||
| 2 | Weft contraction (width shrinkage on loom) | ||
| 3 | Finished (grey) width (in) | ||
| 4 | Dents per inch | 31.24 | |
| 5 | Stockport sett | 62.5 | |
| 6 | Reed width to be filled (in) | 64.89 | |
| 7 | Ends per inch in fabric by weave | ||
| 8 | Plain 1/1 — 2 ends per dent | 64.4 | |
| 9 | Twill 2/1 — 3 ends per dent | 96.5 | |
| 10 | Twill 3/1 — 4 ends per dent | 128.7 | |
| 11 | Satin 4/1 — 2.5 ends per dent (2,3,2,3…) | 80.4 | |
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)
The denting rule is “one repeat (or a simple fraction of it) per dent”: plain weave 2, 2/1 twill 3, 3/1 twill 4. Five-end satins dent alternately 2 and 3. Fewer ends per dent give a cleaner fabric; more ends per dent let a coarse reed weave a dense fabric.
Maximum ends a preparatory pair can handle
A warper creel of 1,024 cones feeding a sizing creel of 28 beams gives the largest warp the plant can make: 1,024 × 28 = 28,672 ends. That caps either the width or the density:
| A | B | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Warper creel (cones) | |
| 2 | Sizing creel (beams) | |
| 3 | Maximum ends | 28,672 |
| 4 | At EPI | |
| 5 | → maximum width (in) | 143.4 |
| 6 | At width (in) | |
| 7 | → maximum EPI | 260.7 |
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)
Original lecture material
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