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Fabric Design · Lecture 26
Double Cloth
Two cloths woven at once: face and back warps and wefts, and the rule that keeps them apart.
Face / backSelf-stitchedPlain + twill
The one rule
A double cloth has a top (face) warp and weft and a bottom (back) warp and weft. The top layer must sit on the bottom, so every top end is lifted on every back pick, and no back end is lifted on a face pick. Within each layer the threads weave their own structure. Left unstitched this makes a tube or a bag; stitching points (a back end lifted over a face pick, or a face end dropped under a back pick) tie the layers and give a thick, bulky cloth.
In the drawings the ends alternate face (T), back (B) and the picks alternate the same way. Dark squares are the layers’ own weave; orange squares are the face ends lifted out of the way on back picks.
Plain / plain double cloth · 8 ends × 8 picks
Plain face, 3/1 twill back · 16 ends × 16 picks
Plain face, 2/1 twill back · 12 ends × 12 picks
3/1 twill both layers · 16 ends × 16 picks
Read any face pick (rows 1, 3, 5 …): only face ends (columns 1, 3, 5 …) are lifted, in the face weave. Read any back pick (rows 2, 4 …): every face end is up (orange) and the back ends follow the back weave. Add a stitch by lifting one back end on a face pick where a face weft float would hide it.