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Fabric Design · Lecture 03
Shedding Mechanisms and Point Paper
Tappet, dobby and jacquard shedding — what each can weave — and the point-paper convention for drawing a weave.
TappetDobbyJacquardPoint paper
Three shedding mechanisms
| Mechanism | Heald frames controlled | Typical weaves |
|---|---|---|
| Tappet (cam) | 6–8 | plain, twills, sateens, simple ribs — repeats up to 8 picks |
| Dobby | 14–20 (up to 28) | any weave whose repeat fits the frames: cords, piqué, honeycomb, huckaback, small figures |
| Jacquard | every end individually (hooks) | figured fabrics, damask, brocade, large motifs |
The number of different end movements in a design decides how many heald frames it needs (Lecture 8). A design that needs more frames than the loom has must go to a dobby or jacquard.
Point paper
Each column of squares is a warp end, each row a pick; the first pick is at the bottom and the first end on the left. A filled square means the end is lifted over that pick (warp on the face); an empty square means the pick lies over the end. A weave is drawn as one repeat — the smallest block that tiles the whole cloth.
Plain weave 1/1 · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Every end alternates over and under; the second pick is the opposite of the first. One repeat is only 2 × 2 but is drawn on 8 × 8 here to show the tiling.
3/1 twill · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Each end is up for 3 picks and down for 1; every pick shifts the pattern one end to the right, producing the diagonal.
Original lecture material
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