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Fabric Design · Lecture 07
Twill Derivatives
Waved, herringbone, broken and curved twills — ways of turning or interrupting the twill line.
HerringboneBroken twillWavedCurved
Turning the twill line
A pointed (waved) twill reverses the draft, so the diagonal meets itself point to point. A herringbone reverses the direction and breaks the join by shifting the second half one pick, so the twill lines do not meet — the cut gives the typical fish-bone. A broken twill interrupts the line every few ends (crow’s foot). A curved twill changes the step gradually — 1, 1, 2, 2, 3 ends per pick — so the line bends.
Waved (pointed) 2/2 twill · 6 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Herringbone 2/2 · 8 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Second half runs the other way and is cut (ends 5–8 are the inverse of a reversed 2/2), so warp floats meet weft floats at the join.
Herringbone 3/1 · 8 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Broken 2/2 twill (crow’s foot) · 4 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (3× repeat)
The picks of a 2/2 twill are re-ordered 1, 3, 2, 4 so the diagonal never runs more than two ends.
Curved twill (increasing step) · 16 ends × 8 picks
The 2/2 lifting order advances by 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4 ends on successive picks, bending the line.
Original lecture material
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