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Fabric Design · Lecture 19
Colour and Weave Effects
The same weave with coloured ends and picks: hairlines, hound’s tooth, bird’s eye — pattern made by colour order, not by weave.
HairlineHound’s toothBird’s eyeColour order
How a colour-and-weave effect arises
On the face of the cloth you see the warp colour wherever the end is lifted and the weft colour wherever the pick is on top. Arrange the warp and weft colours in an order (1 dark 1 light, 2 and 2, 4 and 4 …) and a plain weave or a twill produces patterns that the weave alone would never show. Below, the warp colour order runs across and the weft order up; the weave is the dark/white point paper on the left and the resulting cloth is on the right.
Plain, 1 & 1 colouring — vertical hairlines · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Warp dark-light, weft light-dark: wherever the dark end is down, the pick on top is also dark → dark lines warp-way.
Plain, 1 & 1 colouring — horizontal hairlines · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Same weave, weft order shifted by one pick: the lines turn weft-way.
2/2 twill, 4 & 4 — hound’s tooth · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
The classic dog-tooth: four dark, four light in both directions on a 2/2 twill.
Plain, 2 & 2 colouring — bird’s eye / step · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
2/2 twill, 2 & 2 — four-pointed star · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
2/2 twill, 1 & 1 — shepherd’s check hairline · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
The lecture encoded hound’s tooth as hex with the colour order in the first row ($3C0 … −10 and $0F0 … −10). In this companion the colour order is given separately and the weave stays a plain 2/2 twill, which is how CAD systems treat colour-and-weave effects.