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Fabric Design · Lecture 13

Crepe, Spot and Honeycomb Weaves

Weaves built on sateen bases — crepes from added marks, superimposed sateens, and the cellular honeycomb.
CrepeSateen baseSuperimposedHoneycomb

Crepe weaves on a sateen base

A crepe weave has an all-over pebbled, non-directional look. The classic way to construct one is to start with a sateen base and add one or more marks to every base mark in a fixed arrangement, or to superimpose two sateens. The hex codes below are the lecture’s own designs.

8-end sateen base + 2 marks · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Crepe 2-1-1-3 arrangement · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Spots on a plain ground · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Motif reversed in alternate quarters · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Sateen derivative (two marks per base) · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Two superimposed 8-end sateens · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Irregular 6-end sateen · 6 ends × 6 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

4-end and 6-end sateens superimposed (12 × 12) · 12 ends × 12 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Honeycomb

A pointed draft and a pointed lifting plan produce diamond-shaped cells whose ridges are long floats and whose hollows are tightly interlaced — a towelling weave that traps water. The 8-end version is the ordinary honeycomb; the 16-end version is the Brighton-style large cell.

Honeycomb, 8 ends · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Draft · 5 healds

Threading order: 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2

Lifting (peg) plan

Honeycomb, 16 ends · 16 ends × 16 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Original lecture material

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