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Fabric Design · Lecture 16
Piqué
Weft-way or figured cords made with a stitching back warp: welt, loose-back and fast-back piqué, wadding picks and waved piqué.
WeltStitching endsWaddingWaved piqué
Two warps, one cloth
A piqué (welt) has a face warp weaving plain with the face picks and a stitching warp — usually one stitching end for every two face ends — held at high tension. On the stitching picks the back ends are lifted over the face, pulling it down into a furrow; between furrows the face bulges into a cord. Wadding picks are thick picks laid between face and back to fill the cords.
Welt (plain piqué) — 6 ends × 6 picks · 6 ends × 6 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Draft · 3 healds
Threading order: 1 2 3 1 2 3
Lifting (peg) plan
Ends 3 and 6 are stitching ends, down on all face picks and lifted on picks 5–6 (the indent).
Loose-back welt with wadding picks 3–4 · 6 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Wadding picks ($B4) lie under the face and over the stitching ends.
Fast-back welt · 6 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
The stitching ends also interlace with the wadding picks, locking the back.
Waved piqué, 24 ends × 24 picks · 24 ends × 24 picks
Fabric effect (1× repeat)
The stitching points move diagonally, so the furrow waves instead of running straight across.
Waved piqué with wadding, 30 ends × 16 picks · 30 ends × 16 picks
Fabric effect (1× repeat)
Original lecture material
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