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Fabric Design · Lecture 17
Stripe and Check Designs
Combining weaves side by side (stripes) and in both directions (checks); the 36-end 2/2 twill check and the warp/weft-face combination.
StripeCheckTwill turnedFace combination
Rules for combining weaves
Weaves can be placed side by side when they have the same number of picks in the repeat (or a common multiple) and interlace with similar frequency, so that the fabric does not pucker. At the join, warp floats of one weave should meet weft floats of the other to make a clean cut. A stripe changes weave across the ends; a check changes it across picks as well.
Stripe: 2/2 twill Z beside 2/2 twill S · 16 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Check: twill direction turned in each quarter · 16 ends × 16 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Plain / 3-1 twill check, 32 × 32 · 32 ends × 32 picks
Fabric effect (1× repeat)
Plain squares look flat and light, twill squares dense and lustrous — the lecture’s 32 × 32 table drawn as a weave.
Warp-face / weft-face combination, 20 ends · 20 ends × 20 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Quarters of warp-faced and weft-faced weave give a two-tone check from one colour of yarn.
The 36-end 2/2 twill check
The lecture’s large example turns a 2/2 twill in 9-end and 9-pick blocks on a 36 × 36 repeat. The codes are reproduced exactly: