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Fabric Design · Lecture 25

Crimp

Peirce’s geometry of crimp, repeated here for the design course; the calculator lives in Weaving Calculations 15–16.
Crimp %θ, p, lJammed

What crimp does to a design

Crimp is the waviness a yarn takes as it bends over the crossing threads: crimp % = (straightened length − cloth length) ÷ cloth length. It decides how much yarn a design consumes, how thick and how extensible the cloth is, and how dense it can be set. In a jammed plain weave of equal yarns the crimp is 20.9% in both directions; a 2/2 twill needs only 13.1%; a warp rib may take 57% in the warp and none in the weft.

Plain, equal yarnsp₂ = 1.732 d₁
Plain, weft twice the warp diameterp₂ = 2.828 d₁

Open Weaving Calculations 15–16 for the full derivation and the live calculator (θ, spacing, cover factor and crimp for any pair of diameters).

Original lecture material

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