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Fabric Design · Lecture 23

Huckaback and Mock Leno

Open, absorbent weaves: huckaback for towels and mock leno imitating the gauze of a true leno.
HuckabackMock lenoFloatsOpen structure

Huckaback

A huckaback alternates blocks of plain weave with blocks where ends (and picks) float over three or more threads. The floats stand out from the plain ground and make a rough, absorbent surface for towels and glass cloths.

Huckaback 1 — 10 ends × 6 picks · 10 ends × 6 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Draft · 4 healds

Threading order: 1 2 1 2 1 3 4 3 4 3

Lifting (peg) plan

Huckaback 2 — 10 ends × 10 picks · 10 ends × 10 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Mock leno

A true leno crosses the ends over each other with a doup heald; a mock leno imitates the open, perforated look with an ordinary dobby by grouping ends and picks so that they crowd together in some places and leave gaps in others.

Mock leno A — 12 ends · 12 ends × 12 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Mock leno B — 8 ends · 8 ends × 8 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Mock leno C — 14 ends · 14 ends × 14 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Mock leno D — 16 ends · 16 ends × 16 picks

Fabric effect (2× repeat)

Original lecture material

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