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Fabric Design · Lecture 06
Rib and Hopsack Weaves
Plain-weave derivatives: extend the interlacing warp-way for a warp rib, weft-way for a weft rib, both ways for a hopsack.
Warp ribWeft ribHopsackBasket
Derived from plain weave
Take plain weave and let each interlacing cover more than one thread. If every end moves over two picks at a time you get a warp rib (ridges run weft-way, the weft is hidden — warp crimp is high, see Weaving Calculations 15). If every pick covers two ends it is a weft rib. Extend both ways and it is a hopsack (matt, panama, basket).
2/2 warp rib · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Each end lifts for two picks, down for two: 2 healds, repeat 2 ends × 4 picks.
2/2 weft rib · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Ends work in pairs; repeat 4 ends × 2 picks.
2/2 hopsack (matt) · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Pairs of ends and pairs of picks interlace as one — a looser, flatter cloth.
3/3 hopsack · 12 ends × 12 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Fancy basket 3-2-3-2 · 10 ends × 10 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Unequal groups (3 and 2) give the irregular basket used in shirtings and upholstery.
Rib and hopsack weaves have long floats on one side, so they need higher sett than plain weave to look firm; the cover-factor divisors (Weaving Calculations 12) are 1.26 for warp rib, 1.5 for weft rib and 1.4 for panama.
Original lecture material
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