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Textile Costing · Lecture 12

ABC Uses in Textiles

Set-up cost versus running cost in dyeing and printing, screen costs, colour wastage, and the true cost of short runs.
Set-up vs runningScreensColour wastageShort runs

Two kinds of machine cost

A machine has a running cost (workers on it, electricity, gas, depreciation) and a set-up cost — the cost of each changeover: wages of workers who set up or stand idle, the minimum chemicals needed to start, and so on. Suppose a processing department has a set-up cost of Rs 5,500 and a running cost of Rs 1 per metre, and marketing charges Rs 3 per metre. Two orders arrive: A for 1,000 m and B for 10,000 m.

Conventional costing vs ABC — orders A and B
ABC
1Running cost per metre
2Set-up cost per order
3Charge to customer per metre
4Order AOrder B
5Length (m)
6Conventional: total cost ÷ total metres
7Average cost per metre2.00
8Cost of order2,00020,000
9Revenue3,00030,000
10Profit1,00010,000
11Activity based: set-up traced to each order
12Cost of order6,50015,500
13Profit / (loss)(3,500)14,500
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)

Dyeing and printing study of a textile factory

Observations from a rotary printing department:

  • A changeover means removing and washing screens, blades and the drum, changing the back cloth, and changing blades if the width changes.
  • 100–200 m of testing wastage per design at rotary #4 arises from setting problems. Designs with fewer colours can be checked at slow speed (less wastage); more colours need high speed so colours become sharp enough to check, and have more setting problems.
  • At least 10–12 kg of colour is wasted at every changeover; on average 4–5 screens out of 12 give an unsatisfactory shade and are washed and readjusted, wasting 5–6 kg per screen; residual colour is left in the drum because the quantity is hard to estimate.
  • Colour costs about Rs 30/kg (light), 45 (medium), 100 (dark); making one colour takes 10–15 minutes, so 3 hours for 12 colours.
  • Vat dyes are costly and need two processes; dyeing has its own essential wastage of colour and cloth.

Screen cost

Width (mm)FillingEngravingScreen cost
1280Rs 1,400Rs 1,300Rs 1,500 – 10,750
1850Rs 1,400Rs 1,400Rs 7,200 – 15,500
2400Rs 1,400Rs 1,600Rs 5,664 – 22,450
2800Rs 1,400Rs 1,900Rs 12,200 – 25,000

So one screen carries about Rs 3,000 of labour on average. If the screen cost for a design is 12,000, a 12-colour design needs Rs 180,000 of screens alone — Rs 180/m on a 1,000 m run — before electricity, wages, depreciation, rent, steam and the wastage of fabric and colour are counted.

Colour wastage for a 12-colour design
AB
1Average colour cost (Rs/kg)
2Number of colours
3Essential wastage at changeover (kg per colour)
4Screens readjusted
5Shade-out wastage per readjusted screen (kg)
6Residual in drum (kg per colour)
7Colour wasted (Rs)9,650
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)

Screen cost per metre by run length and number of colours

The costing department gave an average screen cost of 6,249 for June. Dividing by the run length shows why 400 m jobs cannot be priced like 20,000 m jobs.

Screen cost per metre (Rs)
ABCDEF
1Screen cost
2Colours \ Metres4001,0002,00010,00020,000
3462.4925.0012.502.501.25
48124.9849.9925.005.002.50
512187.4774.9937.497.503.75
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)
The accounting department depreciates a screen over a life of 65,000 m. With real runs of 1,000–2,000 m, most screens never reach that life — the books fill with useless screen “inventory” while the orders that caused the cost look profitable.

Original lecture material

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