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Textile Costing · Lecture 18
Review of Weaving Calculations I
Denier, fabric weight and the yarn cost per yard and per metre of grey fabric, including contraction, wastage and B-grade.
Warp & weft weightWastageYarn cost per metre
How much yarn is in a metre of fabric?
For a construction written warp × weft / ends × picks, width: the warp weight per yard is the number of ends × (1 + crimp + wastage) ÷ (840 × Ne), grossed up for the B-grade fabric that must still be paid for; the weft weight per yard is picks per inch × 36 × width (yd) × (1 + crimp + wastage) ÷ (840 × Ne). Multiply by the yarn price and you have the biggest single cost of the fabric.
| A | B | C | D | E | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Warp count (Ne) | Warp price (Rs/10 lb) | |||||||
| 2 | Weft count (Ne) | Weft price (Rs/10 lb) | |||||||
| 3 | Ends per inch | ||||||||
| 4 | Picks per inch | ||||||||
| 5 | Width (in) | in | |||||||
| 6 | Width (yd) | 1.75 | yd | ||||||
| 7 | Warp contraction | ||||||||
| 8 | Weft contraction | ||||||||
| 9 | Warp wastage | ||||||||
| 10 | Weft wastage | ||||||||
| 11 | B-grade | ||||||||
| 12 | Warp | ||||||||
| 13 | Total ends | 3,780 | |||||||
| 14 | Length of 1 lb of warp (yd) | 16,800 | |||||||
| 15 | Weight of 1 yard of all ends (lb) | 0.2250 | |||||||
| 16 | Warp weight per yard of fabric (lb) | 0.2568 | |||||||
| 17 | Weft | ||||||||
| 18 | Length of 1 lb of weft (yd) | 16,800 | |||||||
| 19 | Weight of one pick, adjusted (lb) | 0.00012 | |||||||
| 20 | Weft weight per yard of fabric (lb) | 0.2514 | |||||||
| 21 | Cost | ||||||||
| 22 | Per yard | Per metre | |||||||
| 23 | Warp cost | 12.84 | 14.04 | ||||||
| 24 | Weft cost | 12.57 | 13.74 | ||||||
| 25 | Yarn cost of fabric | 25.41 | 27.79 | ||||||
blue = input (edit me)grey = formula (click to see it)
Denier, used for filament yarns, converts as denier = 5,315 / Ne (so Ne 30 ≈ 177 denier) — see Weaving Calculations Lecture 1 for all the count systems.