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Fabric Design · Lecture 14
Bedford Cord
Warp-way cords of plain or twill face separated by cutting lines, with stuffer ends for a rounder cord.
Cutting endsStuffer endsPlain faceTwill face
Structure
A Bedford cord shows rounded warp-way ribs. Pairs of picks alternate: on one pair the weft weaves plain (or twill) with the ends of cord A and floats loosely under cord B; on the next pair it does the reverse. The floats on the back pull each cord into a ridge. Between cords a pair of cutting ends weaves plain with every pick, making a sunk line. Stuffer ends — coarse ends lying straight between the face and the floats — make the cords fuller.
Plain-face Bedford cord, 24 ends · 24 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Draft · 6 healds
Threading order: 1 2 3 4 3 4 3 4 3 4 3 4 1 2 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 6
Lifting (peg) plan
Ends 1–2 and 13–14 are the cutting ends (plain on every pick). Picks 1–2 float under the left cord and weave the right one; picks 3–4 the reverse.
Weft floating on two picks (alternate order) · 24 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Twill-face Bedford cord, 22 ends · 22 ends × 6 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
The cord face is a 2/1 twill; six picks complete the repeat.
With stuffer ends, 28 ends · 28 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
The extra ends in the middle of each cord are lifted on the floating picks and lowered on the weaving picks, so they lie straight inside the cord.
Colour effect: weave the two pick-pairs in red and green and each cord shows a solid colour because only its own weaving picks are on its face — a two-colour cord from one warp.
Original lecture material
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