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Fabric Design · Lecture 05
Satin and Sateen
Smooth, lustrous weaves built by distributing single interlacings with a move number.
Move number5-end8-endSatinetteStriped satin
Satin (warp-faced) and sateen (weft-faced)
In a satin each end is down on only one pick of the repeat; in a sateen each end is up on only one pick. The single interlacings are scattered so that no two touch — that is what the move number does: on each pick the interlacing moves a fixed number of ends along. The move number must share no factor with the repeat, and must not be 1 or repeat − 1 (those give a twill).
| Repeat | Possible move numbers | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 4 | — | no true satin; 4-end satinette (an irregular arrangement) is used |
| 5 | 2, 3 | the commonest: 4/1 satin, 1/4 sateen |
| 6 | — | irregular 6-end satin only |
| 7 | 2, 3, 4, 5 | |
| 8 | 3, 5 | 7/1 satin — damask, satin stripes |
| 10 | 3, 7 |
Drawings
1/4 sateen, 5-end, move 2 · 5 ends × 5 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
4/1 satin, 5-end, move 3 · 5 ends × 5 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
7/1 satin, 8-end, move 3 · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
4-end satinette · 4 ends × 4 picks
Fabric effect (3× repeat)
Hex $8 $4 $1 $2 — the lifts form a broken 2/2 twill (Lecture 10 notation).
1/7 sateen, 8-end, move 5 · 8 ends × 8 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Striped satin (satin + sateen stripes) · 10 ends × 10 picks
Fabric effect (2× repeat)
Five ends of 4/1 satin beside five ends of 1/4 sateen: the warp-faced stripe looks dark, the weft-faced one light, from the same yarns.