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Fabric Design · Lecture 24
Fabric Analysis – Guidelines
How to take a sample apart: finding the face, the warp direction and the repeat before counting threads.
Face sideWarp directionRepeat
Which side is the face?
The face is usually the side with more lustre and a clearer, better-defined weave; printed or finished fabrics show the finish on the face; warp-faced weaves (satin, twill drills) show the warp floats on the face.
Which way is the warp?
- Selvedge
- If a selvedge is present the warp runs parallel to it.
- Size and feel
- Warp yarns are sized, so they feel harsher and stiffer and are harder to unravel; weft is softer.
- Design direction
- Stripes, cords and the prominent twill line usually run warp-way; the sett is normally higher in the warp.
- Crimp
- The set with more crimp (wavier when pulled out) is usually the warp in dense fabrics — though in weft-faced cloths it can be the reverse.
- Folded yarns
- If one set is two-fold and the other single, the folded yarn is almost always the warp.
- Yarn quality
- Warp yarns are generally finer, stronger and more uniform.
Then analyse
- Count ends and picks per inch (or cm) in several places and average.
- Unravel a few picks and ends; note the interlacing of each end over the picks on point paper until the pattern repeats.
- Measure crimp: straightened length ÷ cloth length − 1 (Lecture 25).
- Weigh a known area and determine the counts (Lecture 12); confirm with the weight formula (Lecture 2).
- Record the weave, draft, peg plan and denting so the fabric can be reproduced.